Day 48 - DIY Eurorack Case, A first attempt

One of the most expensive up-front investments in the Land of Eurorack is a case in which to affix all your beautiful modules. At $20-$40US per hp for a powered case, the price stacks pretty quickly. This is especially true if you're entering Eurorack with grand ambitions of expansion (and who isn't, am I right?), such that the barrier of entry can be intimidating. Luckily, there are some DIY options that, although intimidating in their own right, can ameliorate some of the financial burden of getting started.

After rapidly filling up my 360hp case, I decided to move some of my sequencer modules into a smaller skiff-like rack. Sequencers tend to take up a little more space than your average module, and it's useful to have them not obstructed by cables for the sake of on-the-fly changes. A skiff format (~50mm deep) makes the most sense here; being thinner allows for a little bit more mobility.

Bill of Materials

Some red oak planks, 50mm high or more and 12mm thick. The wood pictured is actually only 30mm high, which is barely tall enough for most modules, even skiff compatible ones.
Rubber feet. If you're an idiot like me and buy planks that aren't tall enough, get some fairly large rubber feet.
Wood screws
Eurorack rails. These ones worked very well for me, but you can get them much cheaper elsewhere.
A power source and power supply. The uZeus from Tip Top Audio is a decent enough deal, provides 5v power, and is widely available. There might be options that are even more affordable. Obviously, you'll have to be satisfied with the flying bus cable, but a power bus stick might be preferable though you'll have to add a "bottom" to the case to which to mount the power bus.
M4 screws to affix the rails to the case.
Some wood filler if you are countersinking your screws.
Wood stain. I would be remiss to not recommend a tea-based stain with a simple gray wash as pictured above and below. A gray wash is as easy as mixing up 1 part gray latex pain and 4 parts water.

I didn't document the putting-it-all-together process, since I have no idea what I'm doing, but it's actually fairly straightforward.

Here's the gist of the process: Drill some pilot holes for the wood screws (bonus points if you can countersink your screws). Then screw the frame together, and mark out where the screws for your rails will be attached with the M4 screws. Drill out the holes for the M4 screws. Screw the rails in place and apply wood putty if desired and let it dry. At this point you can stain your frame, being careful not to slop a bunch of stain on the rails. Let it all dry, add your rubber feet, and Bob's your uncle, as they say.

Not so bad, right? And all done for the cost of dinner and a movie, assuming you're one of those people who gets a lot of candies and whatnot at the theater. Again, there are probably some cheaper options, particularly in regards to the rails and the power supply. The next time I make one of these, I'll see if I can't better document the process of drilling out the holes and putting things together. Enjoy and carpe diem!